How to photograph stained glass

You may not think from my photos that I am entitled to say anything on the subject of stained glass photography! Well, I'm learning!

Before the days of broadband, the limitations of internet loading speed meant that my photos had been kept to a small size, resulting in poor definition in some cases. I'm now in the process of replacing them gradually with larger files, meaning better pictures.

Another thing that has changed since this site was first launched has been the digital camera revolution. Even with the little Canon IXUS50 I've got, my results are already better than my previous Canon SLR with film. So, if possible, get a digital camera!

Anyway!
The main points of stained glass photography for me still remain:

• Weather: the best days are cloudy-but-bright to give diffused light ( bright direct sunlight is worse even than gloomy days)

• Exposure: underexpose to capture painted details in the lightest parts (at least two stops down in normal circumstances)
or take your exposure reading from the faces etc.

• Framing: some of the best results come from photos of smaller details (the whole window may be too big to show the artistry)

• Equipment: of course, better kit generally gives better results
(razor-sharp focus, avoidance of parallax distortion etc. are all good) but OK results can be obtained with a compact zoom

Software: Using professional image manipulation software, such as Adobe's Photoshop, can improve your results
(e.g. remove parallax distortion) . Without a digital camera, you'll need a scanner, too!

Time: as Dr. John Salmon advises me, you'll need plenty: the best results are obtained when there is no keyholder jangling their keys for you to hurry up (my words not his!.

• Flash? Only on a really bright day
(unless you really want the leadwork to be prominent)

• Tripod? yes, please

and you may want to look at this site on the subject

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